3 Days in Buenos Aires

As we set off to spend a long weekend in the Argentine capital of Buenos Aires, I was both excited and a bit nervous.  In the weeks leading up to our trip, I had heard so many good things about the city.  When I told friends and co-workers where we were headed, I was always met with a smile and an “Oh, you will LOVE it”.  So, naturally, I couldn’t wait to see what all the fuss was about.  But I also wondered if it would live up to the hype.  After 3 days of eating, drinking and exploring, for me, the answer was a resounding yes. 
It’s hard to know where exactly to begin. Buenos Aires is often dubbed the “Paris of the South” and, while I can see why, I don’t think this description fully captures the vibe of this quirky city.  There is Parisian charm, to be sure, but Buenos Aires has so much more to offer, and the city’s character is uniquely its own.

While you could spend weeks lost in the charming streets of this city, its definitely possible to get a feel for the place in a few days.  Here is a rundown of a few of the highlights of our trip. From food, to sightseeing to barrio exploring, we loved every minute of our time in Buenos Aires.

Food

OK, let’s talk food. Argentina is known for its red meat and red wine (specifically Malbec), and those are certainly in abundance here at unbelievably low prices. While Matt and I aren’t big steak lovers, we did check out the obligatory steak house, choosing Don Julio’s Parrilla located near our hotel (Guatemala 4699) in the barrio of Palermo Soho. If you’re a steak lover, this is a great option for a nice dinner paired with wine and a variety of yummy starters.  We arrived at 8:30 (quite early by Argentine standards) without a reservation and had a short wait, but it was made more enjoyable by a glass of free champagne that they gave to anyone waiting for a table. Honestly, at the risk of being blasphemous, the steak was good, but it definitely wasn’t our favorite meal of the trip.

For us, iLatina (Murillo 725) took the cake for culinary experiences while in Buenos Aires, and is among the best meals I have ever had.  iLatina is a “puerta cerrada” or closed door restaurant, meaning you can only dine there if you make a reservation in advance.  This is simple to do on their website, but I would recommend doing so a few days in advance if possible.  The menu is fixed, with 7 courses + a “snack” course and a bread plate.  The chef is from Columbia, and the idea is to take diners through an experience that allows them to sample flavors from all across Latin America.  From top to bottom, the food was incredible, and each course was just the right size to give you a feel for the dish, but also leave you wanting more. Make a reservation or see the full menu here.

Another place I would recommend for a quick bite at a local establishment is Pizzeria Güerrin, located at Av. Corrientes 1368 in the Theater District. This place has been serving up Argentine style pizza since 1932, and the interior of the restaurant takes you back in time.  While the verdict on this style of pizza, heavy on crust and cheese, light on sauce, seems to be mixed, we were fans.  You can choose to get a table and stay awhile, or walk right up to the counter and order by the slice.  We chose the latter, and enjoyed our food at a long stand up table in the front of the restaurant.  It was a great stop off between the Plaza de Mayo and the Recoleta Cemetery.

 

Sights

I’ll touch on these as I talk about the different Barrios of Buenos Aires (below), but wanted to quickly highlight a few of our favorite sights during our 3 day tour of this great city.

1. Recoleta Cemetery – full of history and slightly creepy grandeur, this mosuleum cemetery is like it’s own mini-city, walled off within the Recoleta neighborhood.
2. Ateneo Grand Splendid – A gorgeous theater that has been transformed into a bookstore.  Need I say more? 
3. San Telmo Market – Take a walk down Calle Defensa on Sunday morning, and take in the sights, smells and sounds of this huge antique market.
4. La Boca Caminito – A bit touristy, but still worth a visit.  The houses in this part of La Boca have been painted in bright hues, and the cobblestone streets are alive with pedestrians strolling and taking in tango shows. 
5. Street Art – One thing we didn’t get to do that is on my list of things for our next visit is a tour of Street Art.  Whether you have time for a tour or not, street art abounds all throughout this city, so stop to take it in as you explore.
6. Bosques de Palermo – This huge network of lush parks makes for fantastic people watching, and is a relaxing place for a stroll or picnic.  You’ll also see lots of dogs and roller bladers, an activity which is still very much alive in Buenos Areas it seems.
7. Plaza de Mayo – Stop and see the Casa Rosada (Pink House) and the center of Argentina’s goverment. 

Barrios

Like most of the world’s great cities, Buenos Aires is segmented into various neighborhoods or barrios.   While close in proximity to one another, each has its own distinct feel and, for me, just wandering through the streets of the various barrios was worth the trip.   Here is a quick overview of the main barrios that we visited.  It is by no means a comprehensive list, but a great starting point to exploring the city (click the map for a great, closer look at the streets and landmarks in each).

Palermo (Palermo Hollywood, Palermo Soho, Alto Palermo & Palermo Chico) is by far the biggest barrio in Buenos Aires, and as such can be segmented in to smaller, mini-barrios. It’s great for a leisurely stroll down charming, tree lined streets or a day of people watching in some of the city’s nicest parks.  We chose to make Palermo Soho our home base for the trip, and were happy with this decision. Along with Palermo Hollywood, the Soho barrio makes up the oldest part of Palermo, and features tree lined streets and an abundance of charming boutiques, restaurants and cafes.  Our hotel (Vain Boutique Hotel) was located just a few blocks from the Plaza Italia metro, which made exploring the rest of the city a breeze. Palermo Chico, located on the opposite side of Avenida Sante Fe, is where many of Buenos Aires elite make their home.  In close proximity to Bosques de Palermo, a beautiful and expansive collection of parks, this barrio is full of million dollar homes and lush green parks.

Recoleta is historically one of Buenos Aires most affluent areas.  As we walked north from the city center, the shift was apparent, and it was as if we had entered an entirely new city.  Full of stately homes, museums and theaters, Recoleta is both historic and modern.  There is no shortage of things to do and see, but one attraction that you absolutely can’t miss is the famous Recoleta Cemetery.  Made up exclusively of mausoleums, words really can’t describe this city within a city.  Simultaneously beautiful and a little bit creepy, you can spend an afternoon wandering through the rows of crypts of Buenos Aires politicians, heroes, statesmen and celebrities.  Perhaps most notable for visitors is the tomb of Eva Peron (Evita) who was laid to rest with her mother’s family.

The Centro barrio of Buenos Aires is where the country’s political scene is centered. Technically, this barrio can be broken up further to San Nicholas, Monserrat and Retiro, but during our trip we really only had time to explore the areas surrounding the famous Plaza de Mayo.   We began by taking in the Casa Rosada, Argentina’s White House and from there took a walk down the impressive Avenida Mayo, which is flanked by European style architecture and leads from the Casa Rosada to the houses of Congress.

Puerto Madero – While most of the architecture and neighborhoods in Buenos Aires have a distinctly old world feel, Puerto Madero is the exception. This neighborhood runs along much of the city’s waterfront, and is characterized by modern high rises, and industrial brick warehouses.  Much of what you see there today is the result of a major urban renewal effort that started in the 1990’s, and continues today. While it lacks the charm of some of the city’s other neighborhoods, it’s worth a visit.  We spent some time walking along the waterfront, and also further toward the edge of the city where we spent a lazy couple of hours people watching in the park.  Also of note in this area the famous Puente de la Mujer, a modern pedestrian bridge that connects the east and west docks.

San Telmo is the oldest barrio in Buenos Aires. If you have the ability to visit it on a Sunday, I would highly recommend it.  On Sunday,  Calle Defensa transforms into the enormous San Telmo antique market and the cobblestone streets come to life with vendors selling all sorts of crafts, antiques, food and souvenirs.  We spent several hours browsing the market and taking in the vibe of this barrio.  San Telmo has many great restaurants, as well as an abundance of places to grab a local favorite, the Choripan, which isn’t a lot unlike a brat.

La Boca was the grittiest of the barrios we visited.  While it still has a European feel, the streets of La Boca are distinctly more Italian than they are Parisian.  The colorful houses on and around the Caminito, a large cobblestoned pedestrian area, bear a resemblance to the Venetian island of Borano, but you are reminded that you are in Argentina by the many Tango clubs that line the streets.  The Caminito itself is a bit touristy, but the surrounding streets are a bit less busy, and we saw many groups of friends gathered to have a Sunday afternoon asado (barbecue). Use caution when wandering too far from the main drag, as parts of this neighborhood are a bit less safe than the others we visited, but you will miss out if you avoid La Boca altogether.

So, there you have it.  We spent 3 days eating, sightseeing and wandering through barrios of Buenos Aires and we are smitten with this South American capital.   Who wants to join us on a return trip?