Falling for San Carlos de Bariloche

The highlight of our recent 9 day road trip to the Patagonian Lakes District was a 4 day stay in San Carlos de Bariloche. This small Argentine town is set in one of the most picturesque landscapes I’ve seen, surrounded by mountains and a network of long, beautiful finger lakes. Our stay near the Llao Llao Peninsula was nothing short of enchanting.

lauren-on-rock-looking-at-lakeIf you had told me before the trip that it would be cold and rainy almost every day, I would have been disappointed. But, somehow, the moody skies and snowy mountain tops only added to the beauty of this place.

Our hotel, The Peninsula Petit hotel, was located about 30 minutes outside of town and made the perfect base for exploring the natural beauty this area has to offer. I would highly recommend staying outside of town (and at this hotel!), as the town itself doesn’t have much charm and most of the hiking trails and outdoor activities are located toward the Peninsula.

After settling into our room and enjoying a welcome plate of hot cocoa and cookies, we set out for our first hike. Despite a steady rain as we started out on the trail, by the time we reached the top of Cerro Llao Llao, the clouds began to lift, revealing a fresh layer of snow sparkling atop the surrounding mountains. We took in the views for awhile, chatting with a German traveler we met at the top (the only other hiker out that day in the rain).

 

img_6124img_6091IMG_8369.JPGimg_8366After our hike, we set out in search of dinner. At the recommendation of our hotel, we chose an Argentine Parrilla or Steakhouse. We ordered a bottle of Malbec and chose a set menu featuring Patagonian cordero or lamb. We expected to walk away with full stomachs, but weren’t prepared for the absolute smorgasbord that was put in front of us. Platter after platter of lamb prepared just about every way imaginable, followed by a large plate of grilled meat.

The weather forecast for our second day in Bariloche looked like the clearest day we would get, so we set our sights on a long day hike to Refugio Frey. The hike began on Cerro Cathedral, the area’s main ski resort. Though the sun was out, the higher altitude meant that as we made our way, we found ourselves hiking through some snow left behind from the previous night’s storm. The hike was 7 hours total, but was relatively flat, and took us through some beautiful wooded areas before leading up to a beautiful (and freezing cold/windy) alpine lake. On the way down, we stopped to hang our hammock by the river and relax for awhile. The sun was bright, making the trail itself relatively warm, but as we sat more snow flurries began to fall, making the whole forest glisten.

img_6135freypano1IMG_6295.JPGlaurenlakerufiofreycumbreimg_8390

We were pretty exhausted from the day of hiking, so we after stopping to take a stroll along a rocky beach, decided to take it easy and grab dinner at our hotel. We made it back in time to watch the sun sink down from the small beach at the bottom of the hotel’s property.

dock-over-lake-liolioIMG_6196.JPGimg_6237

On our third day, we decided to explore a route called the Circuito Chico or the small circuit. This is basically a drive that takes you past most of the area’s biggest highlights. There are many tour companies that offer this route, but since we had our car with us, we decided to do our own version of the tour. We started the morning with a couple of short hikes near Llao Llao.  Each trail seemed to lead us to another incredible lake view, whether it be from a rocky beach or a mountain overlook.  The sky was moody, and we faced some rain and cold wind, but it was worth it for the views and peaceful quiet we found on the near deserted trails.

laurenmattsittinglakeIMG_6289.JPGAfter a morning of chilly hiking, we decided it was time to warm, and set our sights on Cerveceria Patagonia for a late lunch and some local craft beer. Chile is full of natural beauty and does a great job of making this beauty accessible to visitors, but in general we have found that Argentina seems to take more care with the finer details that add extra charm to its travel destinations. Both our hotels and dining experiences while in Bariloche were great examples of this. Cerveceria Patagonia is one of many local breweries in Bariloche.  Compared to others, it is relatively new, but appears to be thriving.  The interior was modern and cozy, and both our food and beers were delicious.  The brewery and restaurant are built on a hillside with breathtaking views of the lakes below. It was a great way to pass the afternoon, before continuing along the circuit.

IMG_6267.JPG

After lunch, we continued along the circuit, scouting out some shorter trails as we went. We finished our day of exploring with stops at a couple of the many small, rocky beaches that you will find along most of the major roadways in the Bariloche area.

IMG_8454.JPGmatt-by-lake

On our last full day, we continued our outdoor exploration. We started the morning with a ride up a chair lift to the top of Cerro Campanario, which offered some incredible views over the surrounding lakes and mountains. The rain picked up again on our way back down the hill, so we decided to spend some time shopping at a few local craft stores, and enjoying a cup of tea at Chiado tea house, a cozy spot tucked into the hillside with yet another beautiful lake view. Luckily, despite a rainy early afternoon, the storms blew through allowing us to enjoy a few more walks along the beach.

img_6305

img_6123

IMG_6355.JPG

On our final night, we decided to have an honorary birthday dinner (a few days early) at a restaurant called Las Morillas. We enjoyed delicious food and wine, again impressed by the variety of quality food and service we found in this small-ish town. It was a great way to cap off our stay, and we reflected on how much we had grown to love this area during our short visit.

img_6373

Before heading out on our trip home, we ate one last breakfast in our hotel’s beautiful dining room. As I mentioned in my post about our full, 9 day road trip, our hotel in Bariloche was another big reason we had such a great experience. The views from the lobby, rooms and dining area were phenomenal, the staff was friendly, and the breakfast was the best I have had at a hotel. We stuffed ourselves full of delicious, bite-sized breakfast foods, and then loaded up our car to begin the return journey home.

img_6378

One of the strange things about living abroad, is visiting so many beautiful places and knowing that, in all likelihood, you will never see them again. While I do hope that we make it back to Bariloche at some point, it is not an easy destination to reach. There is an airport, but direct flights are only available from Buenos Aires, and the drive from Santiago is nearly 15 hours. Whether we make it back of not, I am so glad we got the chance to experience this place, even if only for a few days.

IMG_8457.JPG.jpeg

For more details about our road trip, which took us from Santiago, through the Patagonian Lakes district and back, head over here. Check back soon for details about our most recent 5-day hiking and camping trip through Torres del Paine national park in Chilean Patagonia!

4 Replies to “Falling for San Carlos de Bariloche”

Leave a Reply